Horses

One of the most important parts of horse care is hoof care. Your horse is on its hooves all the time, so if you don’t take care of your horse’s hooves your horse could develop some very serious health problems that might even result in your horse having to be euthanized. Hoof care is essential to taking care of your horse.

In order to give your horse the best hoof care possible you need to have a blacksmith come out every four to six weeks and trim your horse’s feet. If your horse wears shoes then the blacksmith will need to remove the shoes and refit them because the horse’s hooves grow constantly. Even if your horse doesn’t wear shoes it’s important to get the horse’s feet trimmed regularly. Untrimmed feet can crack and split and cause lameness.

In addition to having the blacksmith come out regularly you also need to pick your horse’s hooves out every day or every time you groom or ride your horse.

Here are some other ways that you can keep your horse’s hooves in good shape:

• Use a hoof strengthening product on the hooves when you clean them.
• Make sure that the horse’s bedding is always dry and clean. Standing in wet or unclean bedding day after day can cause hoof rot or other hoof problems.
• Make sure your horse’s diet is nutritious. Just like your fingernails will be dry and crack easily if you aren’t getting the right nutrition, a horse’s hooves will be dry and likely to crack if the horse isn’t getting the right nutrition.
• Make sure that the shoe your horse wears isn’t too heavy for your horse. Wearing shoes that are too heavy can cause a lot of foot problems for horses.
• In the winter, keep your horse’s hooves clean and dry. Coat the entire hoof with petroleum jelly to insulate the hoof against the cold and wet and to prevent snow from building up inside the hoof.

Common Hoof Problems

Unfortunately, there are a lot of hoof problems that horses can develop. Here are some of the most common hoof problems that horse owners see in their horses and how to treat them.

• Hoof Bruises
• Horse Abscesses/Horse Foot Abscesses
• Horse Thrush
• Horse Laminitis

Hoof Bruises

Sometimes horses will get bruised on the frog or the sole of their hooves. Sole bruises in horses are quite common, especially if you ride on the street or on the trail quite a bit. Any loose rock or shard surface can cause a sole bruise on a horse’s hoof. Sole bruises happen to trail horses all the time. If your horse has a sole bruise you’ll notice the horse favoring that foot and going slower than usual. Sole bruises don’t often cause total lameness.

To prevent sole bruises, if you know you’re going to be riding on an uneven, hard or rocky surface, get shoes put on your horse’s hooves to protect the hooves. If your horse has had several bruises in the past and has tender hooves as a result, ask your blacksmith to put a padded shoe on your horse. Padded shoes will provide a cushion for the hoof and protect it from any further bruising.

The only way to treat sole bruises is to let them heal on their own. Try to give your horse a few days of stall rest and give the horse someplace soft to stand. Put a rubber mat in the stall or add extra bedding for a few days until the bruised hoof heals.

Horse Abscesses

Abscesses are a nasty injury for a horse and are all too common. An abscess forms when there is a puncture to the outer wall of the hoof, usually around the white line on the hoof. This puncture can come from a rock hitting the hoof, the horse banging a hoof on the stall door or on a fence, nicking a jump with a hoof, or any number of other ways. Once there is a puncture in the hoof, standing in manure, dirt, and other materials allows bacteria to get inside the hoof and pockets of pus form throughout the hoof.

You will know if your horse has an abscess because abscesses cause a lot of pain and lameness for a horse. You also may notice the pus leaking from the hoof or a nasty odor when you’re picking out the horse’s hooves. The only way to treat an abscess is to break it open and drain the pus. Your blacksmith or vet should always be the one to open the abscess.

After the abscess is open, soak that affected hoof or hooves in Epsom salts twice a day to draw out the pus and clean the hoof. While the hoof is healing, keep it bandaged and make sure the horse doesn’t stand in any wet bedding, mud, or dirt that might infect the wound again. Your vet will also probably prescribe antibiotics and possibly a painkiller too.

The best way to prevent abscesses is to make sure that your horse’s stall is cleaned every day and that you don’t leave your horse standing in wet or dirty conditions.

Horse Thrush

Thrush is the number one hoof problem that horses have. Thrush is a type of hoof rot but not the only type. Practically all horses get thrush at one point or another. Thrush is caused by anaerobic bacteria that attack the frog of the foot and the sides of the frog.

So how does a horse get thrush? It’s simple, really. Standing for long periods of time in dirty, wet, or bacteria infected surroundings gives a horse thrush. So if you don’t clean the horse’s stall and the horse stands for days in urine soaked bedding, that horse can get thrush from standing in that bedding.

If it’s the rainy season and the pasture is flooded and the horse stands for hours in the mud and rain then the horse can get thrush. Anytime your horse is standing for long periods of time in a wet, dirty environment, thrush can creep in.

If your horse has thrush you will notice thick black crud in and around the frog of the horse’s hooves when you’re cleaning the hooves and you will definitely smell it. Thrush smells like decay, because that’s really what it is. The bacteria are eating away at the flesh of the foot in the frog and around the frog.

If your horse has thrush you should start treating it right away. Left untreated, thrush can cause serious hoof damage and even permanent lameness. What can you do to treat thrush? There is a two pronged approach that you need to take when you’re treating thrush.

First, clean the horse’s stall. Make absolutely sure that the bedding in the stall and the floor underneath are clean and dry. For a few days clean the stall out twice a day to make sure that the stall stays dry and clean. Confine the horse to the barn if possible. If your horse is kept in a pasture, move the horse to another pasture that is drier or block off the wet end of the pasture. You need to make sure that the horse won’t be standing in any muck until the thrush is cured.

Then you can address the problem of the actual thrush. Take a stiff wire hoof brush and brush out the hoof. Get as much of the black thrush out of the frog as you can. Then use Betadine or an iodine solution to wash out the hoof. Wash the entire hoof with the solution and paint it on the outside of the hooves as well.

You can also use household bleach or hydrogen peroxide to wash out the hoof but most vets recommend using Betadine or an iodine solution so that you don’t damage any of the frog tissue while you are killing the thrush. Wash out the horses hooves at least three times a day for three to five days and the thrush should start to clear up. If it doesn’t then you should call your blacksmith. If the thrush is very severe the blacksmith may need to trim out the thrush infected areas of the hooves.

Horse Laminitis

Laminitis is another very common hoof problem that horses suffer from. Laminitis is basically a breakdown of the strong connecting tissue, called laminae, that connect the pedal bone in the horse’s leg and foot area to the wall of the hoof. As the tissue breaks down the pedal bone begins to sink into the hoof and sometimes can rotate as well. Laminitis is painful and debilitating for horses. Laminitis can cause permanent lameness for horses if it’s left untreated or not allowed to heal properly.

There are two forms of Laminitis, chronic and acute. If your horse has an acute case of Laminitis you’ll notice that your horse is standing with the front legs splayed out in front of it and the back legs tucked under in an attempt to take all the weight off the front legs or you might see the horse shifting its weight frequently. You also could see some swelling around the coronet band and the horse may have a temperature if there is a secondary infection.

Laminitis almost always occurs in the front hooves so if your horse is trying to get weight off the front hooves then you need to check for Laminitis immediately. If your horse has acute Laminitis you’ll also feel heat from the hoof if you touch it and your horse will probably be very reluctant to lift its front hooves off the ground.

If your horse has chronic Laminitis you’ll see the same symptoms that you’d see in a case of acute Laminitis but the symptoms won’t be as pronounced and you might miss them. That’s why checking your horse’s hooves every time you groom or ride is so important. If you’re cleaning and handling the horse’s feet regularly you’ll notice if something is wrong. Sometimes, in an acute case of Laminitis you can see white rings around the outer edge of the hoof.

If your horse develops a case of acute Laminitis that doesn’t heal all the way then your horse is more likely to develop chronic Laminitis over time. If your horse does develop Laminitis it’s very important that you allow the horse to fully heal before getting the horse back into a normal exercise and turnout schedule so that the horse doesn’t develop chronic Laminitis.

Horse Laminitis Causes

There are many different things that can trigger acute Laminitis in horses. Chronic Laminitis is most often caused by a previous acute Laminitis attack that never healed or an underlying health condition.

The Common Causes of Laminitis:

• Carb overload. A horse that is put out in a lush pasture and allowed to gorge or a horse that gets loose and gets into the grain bin and eats too much grain can develop acute Laminitis from the influx of carbohydrates.
• Cushing’s disease – Cushing’s disease is a hormonal imbalance that occurs in people as well as in horses. In horses, the most common effect of Cushing’s disease is chronic Laminitis that may flare to acute Laminitis on occasion.
• Hypothyroidism.
• Lack of exercise.
• Being ridden or worked on a very hard surface like pavement.
• Obesity. Obese horses that rarely get any exercise have a high risk for developing both acute and chronic Laminitis.
• Retained placenta in mares.
• Salmonella.
• Infection.
• Excessive weight on one hoof, such as in cases where the horse uses one hoof more than the others because of pain in the other hooves. The “good” hoof could develop Laminitis as a result of bearing all the horse’s weight as the horse tries to favor the other hooves.
• Very rich food that is too high in protein.
• Drinking large amounts of very cold water.
• Pawing or banging at the stall door or a pasture fence.
• Being transported in horse trailers over long distances without rest.

Immediate and Long Term Care for Laminitis

If you see your horse starting to exhibit signs of Laminitis you should immediately take action. If left untreated, Laminitis can lead to permanent lameness and hoof damage. Some horses with serious and untreated Laminitis need to be euthanized. So if you see your horse showing signs of Laminitis the first thing that you should do is call your vet. Don’t just call and make an appointment; tell the vet it’s an emergency and get a vet out there as quickly as possible.

While you are waiting for the vet move the horse to a stall with extra deep bedding or put down a rubber mat and some extra bedding in your horse’s stall. Make the floor of the stall as soft and as comfortable as possible so that the horse won’t be in so much pain standing on it. Don’t walk the horse; that could cause further damage.

When the vet examines the horse, the vet will probably give the horse several medications, including pain killers and an antibiotic in case the Laminitis is caused by an infection. If the Laminitis is the result of a grain or pasture binge then the vet may inject liquid paraffin into the horse to bring down the horse’s blood sugar and counter the effects of the food overdose.

Once the vet has done a thorough exam and made a diagnosis of Laminitis you might have to have X-rays taken and other diagnostic tests done to see what the extent of the damage is. You will also need to consult with your blacksmith to see what the condition of the horse’s hoof is after treatment. Sometimes, a blacksmith can put a special shoe on the affected foot that has a pad on it to lessen the impact of normal walking and running on the hoof since the affected hoof will probably be weak and damaged.

A horse’s recovery from Laminitis could take years. Don’t expect the horse to be back out in the arena within a few weeks if your horse has Laminitis. It will probably take months if not longer for the horse to fully heal. During that time the horse will need a lot of care and can’t be ridden. Exercise will have to be limited too.

In most cases, horses that have Laminitis can recover enough to be ridden again; although, if the case is severe enough or if the horse suffers from chronic Laminitis, the horse might not be able to compete in shows or work as hard as it did before the Laminitis. Once a horse has had Laminitis it will always be prone to getting Laminitis again so you will need to watch carefully all the time to make sure that your horse doesn’t develop Laminitis again.

Daily Hoof Care

Some books say pick your horse’s feet clean every time you groom; make it a part of your grooming routine. This is great if you groom your horse daily. Other people believe you only need to pick hooves when you ride your horse. If your horse is stalled, his feet need to be cleaned twice daily. When your horse is ridden, his feet need to be picked clean before and after the ride.

Daily hoof care only starts with picking your horse’s hooves clean. Daily stall cleaning is also part of hoof care because poor sanitation contributes to thrush.

Thrush is a common hoof disease that is caused by a bacteria which is anaerobic in nature (it needs no air). Most manure and dirt contain this organism and if allowed to remain packed in hooves will attack the foot. If thrush is present, a foul smelling odor is produced and a blackish thick liquid material can be found in the creases (commissures) around the frog. If allowed to go long enough, it will develop into an abscess.

By no stretch of the imagination, daily hoof care also involves nutrition. Without proper nutrition, nothing grows. Nutrition may play an even bigger part when it comes to horse’s foot problems. There are vitamin and mineral supplements designed especially for hoof growth. Dramatic results won’t be observed because it takes 12 months for new hoof growth to reach the ground.

Through daily hoof care, a lot of problems can be found and treated early before they become big costly problems. By making sure no rocks are left packed into the bottom of the hoof, you will help prevent bruises that can cause lameness and loss of use of your horse.

Weekly Hoof Care

There is not much to do on a weekly basis if your daily routine is good. A good practice is to strip your stall of all bedding and let it air out most of the day. This will keep your stall drier and keep the threat of thrush to a minimum. If your horse has a history of thrush, or if horses stabled in a particular stall have a history of thrush, sprinkle the stall with some lime before re-bedding.

Another good weekly practice is to check hooves for their moisture condition. If they appear too dry, you can pack wet clay into the soles and then remove it the next morning. Moisture can be increased by providing a mud puddle in a day pen, i.e., around a water trough.

During the wet season, if a horse is allowed to stand in the mud too much, the hooves will get soft and lose their shape. Shoes will be more apt to be lost at this time. To protect against this, apply an oily, greasy type hoof dressing or a hoof bond. If you choose the hoof bonding, it will last up to 4 weeks. It also is less messy to be around when handling your horse’s feet.

Importance Of Taking Good Care Of Horse Hoof

One of the toughest jobs for the horse owner is to take care of the overall health of the horse. Supervision of horses does not just constitute their health problems, as you also have to pay attention to the overall body of the horse. Horse hooves are one of the important parts which have to be maintained by the horse owners. Lack of proper care of the horse hoof can lead to lameness and other problems.

Horse hoof care is an absolute necessity as it helps the horse in ensuring proper performance and better career. For proper care of the hoof of the horses, you have to know and learn the basic formation and function of horse foot and all its parts.

Normally horse hooves are divided into external and internal foot structure. The external foot structure consists of four parts namely, coronet, hoof wall, frog and sole. And the internal foot structure also consists of four parts namely, plantar cushion, coffin bone, sensitive laminae and navicular bone.

Horse hoof care consists of some of the important processes that have to be performed on a regular basis.

Routine care is a process where you have to maintain clean and clear hoof in your horses. Normally some unwanted organisms capable of spreading diseases concentrate in the horse hooves. The diseased bacteria accumulate in the frog region and produces stinking odor and this gradually results in lameness. In such cases hoof picks or fine wired brush is used to clean the area.

Moisture should be maintained in horse hoof as it leads to sustain flexibility and avoid cracks in the hoof. Intense wet circumstances can lead to dryness and the natural oils and protective films present in the lower foot region can corrode from regular contact with exterior moisture. So you should dress the hoof applying animal fat or lanolin in the base.

Trimming is very important technique to hold proper shape and size of horse hooves. It should be done frequently on regular intervals. Nippers and rasp are basically used for trimming. Trimming is done to keep the pressure on the hoof wall and to remove dead tissue from the sole.

You should also maintain proper angle between the hoof wall and the ground in order to prevent lameness of the horse hooves.

When you are nailing the horse shoe be attentive and take care that the nail should not prick the horse hoof as this will cause severe injuries and can result in lameness.

Cleanliness, promptness, frequency and utilize of correct remedial measures are some of the most important features of high-quality horse hoof care.

Horse training voice commands are part of basic horse training. Talk to the animal when you approach it and handle it. Horses learn to obey your voice, „horse language“ by the tone of it. They will know if you are pleased or cross with them.

In horse language you need to be consistent with the words you use and your tone and pitch of voice. If you want the youngster or foal to stand you would say “stand!” quite firmly or “whoa!” using the same word every time for that same command.

When the horse has been good you would praise him by stroking his neck and telling him verbally „good boy“. Your voice should be full of praise speaking in a pleasant manner for this horse training voice command.

Keep your horse training voice commands simple and short with no more than three words for horse language. The youngster will switch off if you talk all the time to him. You may need to repeat the command several times until your horse begins to understand what you want him to do for this basic horse training.

All words should be spoken slowly and clearly for horse language. For upward transitions the voice should raise to a higher pitch, downward transitions should be of a lower pitch.

The use of the word „and“ before a command in horse language should be used as a warning signal to alert the horse that something is coming.

For example, walk to trot transition, you would say „and trot“.

Examples of Horse Training Voice Commands

• Out
• Easy
• Good boy
• Good girl
• Good lad
• Good man
• Naughty boy
• Naughty girl
• Whoa
• Stand
• Wait
• Walk on
• Trot on
• Steady
• Over
• Back back

Always praise your horse for good behavior. Stoke it and use your horse training voice commands together.

When riding if the young horse is anxious or worried, talk to him calmly in a soothing voice whilst stroking his neck at the same time. This horse language will help to relax it and he will gain confidence with positive encouragement from the rider.

If you are riding a horse and he spots something down the road, he will pick up his ears, shorten his stride and raise his head up. You need to use your horse training voice commands “walk on” you might need to repeat this several times as well as using your seat and legs to encourage the young horse to move forward.

Once the horse understands the bonding will improve, he will become easier to ride. Using your voice will instil confidence, calm him down or walk him up. Your voice can be used to reward him or warn to behave properly or reprimand him if he is being naughty.

When competing horses it is seen as unprofessional to use your horse training voice commands when show jumping. In a dressage test you would loose marks for using your voice.

Some people click at a horse (click your tongue) when they are around it. This can be quite unsettling for the horse and this action will not calm it down. Clicking is sometimes used to get a lazy horse to move forward .

When you have a young horse you will need to give him a name . The pony will have to learn its name, so you will use the horse training technique of repeating the name as often as you can until he understands this basic horse training.

When you catch him in the field keep calling him. If he does not respond, walk up to him calling out his name, remember keep it simple in horse language. It may take several attempts and a lot of patients before he begins to realise that he is the pony you want.

Do you know what your horse is saying to you? Do you know how to read horse body language?

Obviously, horses don’t speak to us with words, but they are communicating with us all the time. If you learn what their body language is telling us, we can learn to communicate better with our horses.

A horse’s main way of communication is through body language. Although horses use vocal language, the more sophisticated of the two is, of course, body language. With a certain look, a flick of the ears, or a slight turn of the head, horses are able to communicate with each other.

Understanding Horse Body Language

Learning this subtle language can only help us in understanding our horse and better our riding skills. Unfortunately, people will often misinterpret a horse’s body language into something it is not. Below is a small guide to help you understand your horse.

Swishing of the Tail

When a horse swishes his tail while you are training on the ground or riding usually means that they are frustrated or annoyed with what you are asking them to do. Sometime, it may just be that they are trying to get a fly off their back, so pay attention to the situation to gauge what the horse is trying to communicate to you.

If a horse is frustrated or won’t do what you ask him to do, it is because you have asked the question the wrong way. Interpret the swishing of the tail as an opportunity to ask your horse to do something in a different way, and see what type of result you get!

Licking The Lips

Licking of the lips is a great sign that the horse is interpreting and understands what you are asking of them. You will find your horse licking their lips shortly after you ask them to do something and they successfully accomplish the task. In essence, they are telling you, “I got it!” Take a moment and let the horse soak in this wonderful moment.

Lowering The Head

When you are working your horse from the ground or from the saddle, look for your horse to lower their head. A high head signals a horse that is tense, nervous or anxious and using the reactive side of their brain. When a horse finally lowers their head, they are telling you that they are relaxed, calm and have accepted you as the leader.

The Ears

The horse body language with ears communicate a great deal of information. Each ear has the ability to “tune in” to something different. When a horses ears are both pricked straight up and forward, they are most likely something has grabbed their attention and they are alert or alarmed. Both ears will be tuned in to what has their attention.

When a horse pins both of their ears backwards is a sign that they are frustrated, annoyed and a warning they may show some aggression. Sometimes when riding, pinned ears may signal that the horse has heard what you have said, but may be in some sort of pain by your request.

Take a repeated sign of pinned ears when riding as a potential sign that something is physically bothering your horse. Check his feet, legs, back, saddle fit, etc to rule out any physical discomfort for the reason for a constant pinning of the ears. This happens frequently when you ask your horse for more demanding gaits like a trot or canter.

A horse that has his ears in a relaxed, neutral position in the middle of his head signals a horse that is calm, and paying attention to his rider.

Pinned Ears

Pinning of the ears should usually be interpreted as a form of aggressiveness, or anger. Horses use pinned ears as threatening gestures towards their aggressor. Discomfort or pain can also cause this behavior, like tightening the girth too tightly for example.

When on a trail ride or in a ring where horses follow one another, you should pay special attention to the movement of your horses ears. If his ears are pinned back in such a situation it often indicates that another horse has gotten too close behind him, and that he might kick. This is why you should always remember to keep distance between your horse and the one in front of you.

Understanding this type of body language can be considered critical. If you don’t correctly interpret the horse’s language, you will react incorrectly to the situation. If the horse is pinning his ears because you have caused him physical discomfort, disciplining him in any form because you think he threatened you is an example of a situation when such a misunderstanding can occur.

Forward Ears

A curious, eager or happy horse will usually have his ears pricked forward. An alert horse always has his ears pricked forward when exploring an unknown trail, when discovering something brand new, like the farm cat or when they are interested by any particular thing whether it is an object or a person. Forward pointing ears are a good sign. They tell of a horse very aware of its surroundings.

Moving Ears

Since horses never either keep their ears pricked forward or pinned backward, their ears are usually flicking back and forth. Just observe your horse’s ears when riding. He is constantly dividing his attention between his rider and his surroundings, resulting in an endless movement of the ears. Since horses are always on alert and have a very keen sense of hearing, they will often hear or spot people, animals or activity long before you do.

Body Posture

Other than the ears, the general attitude and body posture of a horse can tell a lot. An outgoing friendly horse is easy to recognize compared to a more stressed and scared horse. A switching tail and excessive agitation can often be the expression of pain or discomfort.

As you try to interpret a horse’s attitude through their body movements, they do the same thing with you. A horse is very aware of its surroundings in which it can detect the slightest motion. Just like you do with him, he interprets your general body posture, as friendly, threatening or scared. Confidence and patience are keys in understanding horses, and observing them will prove to be a wealth of information, as you will progress in riding.

What Does Neighing Mean in Horse Body Language?

A neigh that is high pitched, and loud can signal anxiety or confidence depending on their body language and the situation. When horses neigh when they are in a group, it is usually because they see something “unusual” in the distance and are warning the others of what they see.

A low-pitched neighing, where a horse doesn’t open his mouth is a form of a greeting or hello or “hey, it’s good to see you.” I guess you could refer to this is more of a nicker than a neigh.

Horses have so much to tell us about what they are feeling if we simply pay attention. They will appreciate you paying attention and making adjustments based on what they are telling you. In addition, it helps us understand how important non-verbal communication is to how we communicate with our horses as well. Pay attention to what your own body is saying.

A horse needs daily grooming. When you decide to perform this task for your hooved pets, you should allow about 45 minutes to an hour to complete it.

You’ll need a few grooming products in order to do the job well. A rubber curry comb, a body brush, a dandy brush, a hoof pick with an optional brush, a mane comb, a clean sponge, and a towel or rag. You might also want to use a mane and tail conditioner.

Begin by tying your horse securely, using a halter or cross ties with quick-release fasteners. Start on your horse’s left side, and pick up a front leg. Run your hand down the horse’s leg to the fetlock, and pick the leg up gently. Don’t lift it too high, or the horse might lose his or her balance.

Clean the hoof with the hoof pick, using it to loosen packed dirt. Be careful not to cut into the V-shaped area in the center of the hoof, known as the frog. If your hoof pick has a brush, use it to clean away any loose dirt; clean the remaining hooves in the same way.

Again beginning on the horse’s left side; use the rubber curry comb to loosen dust and dirt on the coat. Move the brush in circles to loosen the dirt beneath the coat. Don’t use the curry comb on your pet’s legs. These products are not designed for delicate leg areas.

You should also be very careful on bony parts of the body, such as the shoulders and back. Never use a curry comb or any stiff-bristled brush on your horse’s face, because a sudden head movement could result in injury to an eye.

After you’ve loosened the dirt, use the dandy brush to sweep it away. Use short movements, as you do when you’re using a whisk broom, twisting your hand at the wrist. This will sweep out the dirt that’s caught in the coat. You’ll probably see little dust clouds as you work. Bang the side of the brush against the ground or floor occasionally to clean it. Do the horse’s left side, then the right side, and the rear.

Next, use the body brush to smooth the coat. Move the brush in a downward motion, which will get rid of any bits of dirt that remain, and make your pet’s coat shiny.

Clean the horse’s face with a clean, damp sponge, wiping around the eyes and nostrils. Spray the mane with conditioner, if you like, and comb it with a plastic mane comb. A plastic product will break fewer hairs than a metal comb.

Spray Your horse tail with conditioner if you’re using it, and brush the tail with the Dandy Brush. Avoid using the mane comb because it tends to break the tail hairs. Finally, wipe the entire coat with a clean towel or rag. This will remove sweat marks and make your pet’s coat shine.

Last, always remember to be very careful when grooming your horse – let them know (by touching them gently) where you are at all times.

Everything You Need to Groom a Horse

When you groom a horse, you need a few special products that will loosen and remove dirt, smooth the mane and tail, and clean the hooves.

The kit for grooming your horse includes many brushes and combs with each having its own particular job, such as some listed below:

Dandy brushes use long bristles to get rid of surface soil from the coat, and are typically used on regions of the horses that are the least sensitive. Body brushes have a leather back and can be either tough or soft depending on your requirments. They are normally used to get rid of grime and riding dust from you’re horses’ coat and can be used in the sensitive areas of your horse’s body.

Alter brushing the horse, the curry comb is used to maintain the brush, not for disentangling the horse. It cleans off the dust and soil that accumulate on the brush so it will be for the following time you need it. The rubber curry comb is used to clean the horse’s mane and tail, to remove caked mud and loose hair.

Water Brush – you are going to use water when washing off or moistening your horse’s coat and this brush is needed when utilizing water on them.

The mane comb, true to its name, is used to comb out the mane and tail, and most normally is manufactured of metal and plastic. Short metal comb variants are used for drawing manes while other specific combs are used to reduce the thickness of the mane.

Hoof picks are used to take of soil, stone and other detritus that are collected in their hooves while horseback riding or feeding in the field.

Cotton fiber sponges are used for cleansing the eyes, nose and injuries, while a sweat scraper wipes off sweat from the horse or surplus water when washing.

A canvas bag with drawstring, as long as it has room for all the brushes, would make a great grooming kit.

Horse Grooming for Show Day

If you show your horse or if your pet gets especially muddy or dirty, you’ll probably want to use a shampoo periodically. Mane and tail shampoo products can be used on your pet’s coat, as well.

Mix them into a bucket of water, as directed on the bottle, and apply the mixture to your horse’s coat. After you rinse them out, follow up with mane and tail conditioner.

To loosen dirt before a shampoo, or as part of a daily grooming, use a rubber curry comb. These combs loosen dirt when you move them in a circular motion over the horse’s entire coat. They’re not meant to be used on the legs, unless you can do it very, very gently.

After the curry comb, use a dandy brush to remove the loosened dirt. These brushes have stiff bristles, and let you sweep away the dirt. Again, you shouldn’t use them on your pet’s legs.

Never use any bristled brush on your pet’s face. It’s too easy to cause an eye injury if the horse moves or jerks. Instead, gently wipe around the eyes and nostrils with a damp, clean sponge.

Use a body brush to smooth down the coat after you remove the dirt. These products will also help to make the coat shine. Wipe the legs with a damp towel or rag, and gently brush them with the body brush.

Use a plastic mane comb to comb out tangles in the mane and forelock. For the tail, the dandy brush will remove tangles without breaking the hairs. If you haven’t used a shampoo, you can use a mane and tail conditioner before brushing to help remove tangles and make the mane and tail shiny and smooth.

To clean your pet’s hooves use a hoof pick. A pick equipped with a brush will let you brush away the dirt that you loosen. Use a stable cloth, a clean towel, or a clean rag to wipe your pet’s coat and make it shiny.

If you’re showing your horse, you might want to use a conditioning product on the towel for the final wipe. These products make the coat soft, smooth, and shiny. They shouldn’t be used in the saddle area, because they can also make the coat slippery.

The Best Tips and Tricks for Grooming Horses

Here are some tips collected from horse owners all over on ways to groom your horse more effectively:

• Use whitening toothpaste to whiten socks and white face markings. Rub the toothpaste onto the white areas with your hand or a soft sponge and rinse clean. The white will be blinding.
• Use cornstarch to freshen up white socks or white hooves, especially before going into the show ring or whenever you want your horse to look great.
• To detangle a really matted tail or mane, take a gentle dish soap and wash the tail with that and then work out the tangle with a stiff brush.
• Baby wipes are a great way to „spot clean“ your horse.
• Use a chamois or microfiber cloth to „dust“ your horse after grooming. It will remove all the fine dust and hair that even the softest brush won’t remove.
• If there’s no time to give your horse a bath but the horse really needs one, use a dry shampoo and a soft sponge to wipe the horse down.
• Use a shine product like Show Sheen on your horse immediately after a bath and any barn dust that settles on the coat will slide right off.
• If your horse has a pink or white nose always put some zinc oxide or sunscreen on the nose to protect it from sunburn.
• Always brush in the direction of the hair growth except when you’re currying. Use small circles when you’re currying to loosen dead hair and dust.
• If you can’t wash your muddy or sweaty horse, let the mud or sweat dry and then brush it off; don’t try to brush it off wet or you’ll just spread it around.
• Use color enhancing shampoos to bring out the natural tones and highlights in your horse’s coat.

Grooming is very important to a horse’s health and overall well being. Grooming isn’t just cosmetic; your horse needs to be groomed every day to stay healthy. Grooming is also a good time to examine your horse and check the horse for any bumps or bruises or other injuries.

Horse Grooming Products:

Oster Equine Care Series 7-Piece Horse Grooming Kit

Buy on Amazon

---

Equestria 8 Piece Horse Grooming Set

Buy on Amazon

---

Borstiq Banana 5pcs Horse Grooming Brush Kit

Buy on Amazon

---

7-Piece Horse Grooming Kit by Weaver Leather

Buy on Amazon

---

Mane ‘n Tail 3 Pcs Horse Grooming Shampoo, Conditioner and Detangler

Buy on Amazon

If you like horses then one of the most exciting experiences you can have is to train a young horse. If you are going to train a young horse, you need to have consistency, patience and tenacity.

Regularly a horse owner isn’t aware that they need to work with both the mare and foal for young horse training to be successful and typically just focus on training the foal. But, it is vital that you don’t forget the mare when training the foal because they are biologically and emotionally associated.

Grow a Relationship

There are many parallels between a human infant and a young horse. Any infant species requires a relationship to be started as soon as doable. Young horses start to develop relationships with other horses aptly away in addition to any humans that are around them. The trainer needs to focus on developing this relationship as soon as the horse is born.

A excellent training method to consider is natural horsemanship, which focuses on transparent interaction with horses. Through this horse training method, a trainer can improve the effectiveness of their training by improving their ability to communicate with the horse. Foal imprint training the most run of the mill method that trainers use.

This is essentially a process that involves bonding young horses with their handlers the same way a mother imprints on her horse baby. The best way to develop a relationship with a new horse is by spending as much time as doable with them.

Early Halter Training

Training a young horse should focus on developing a foundation for future horse training. The main method of interaction for a mounted rider is difficulty. To help a young horse know difficulty from the very start you should start halter training sooner.

This can also help show a foal that you cannot get away when something scares them. This can help a foal to confront what scares them since the trainer can help establish boundaries.

Introduce New Things

When you train a young horse, it is a excellent thought to try to introduce them to something new each day. It doesn’t have to be something major, but can be something as small as taking them to an unfamiliar area, using a different brush or introducing a new horse or human to the area.

Some larger introductions you can make include a bath, picking the hooves, running clippers near the ears and trailer loading. Any of these activities can help a foal become desensitized and help them become less frightened with new experiences. By doing this the foal can start to learn that the trainer doesn’t want to harm them.

Go Slowly

At some point in your life, you have likely veteran sensory overload. Trainers need to know that young horses can experience this as well so it is vital not to push a lot of new sensations and experiences at once otherwise you will delay the training process.

Rather you want to limit the training to just fifteen minute increments. If a horse doesn’t accept the new experience within this time then you should come back to it the next day. Once a your horse turns a year ancient, you can increase training session durations to a half an hour.

 

Basic Horse Training Aids To Help You Get Started

All horse training is serious business. The average animal outweighs the trainer by an impressive margin, and the horse training aids you choose can help prevent serious injury.

Rope Halter

The most basic of horse training aids is the halter and lead rope combination. A rope halter will facilitate tying and leading, and works better than a flat halter because it will prevent leaning while at the same time being comfortable for the horse. The halter is placed on the animal’s head.

Lead Rope

The lead rope is attached to the halter and used to direct or “steer” the horse. In many ways this horse training aid is like a leash.

Lunge Line

The term lunging refers to the set of training skills used to teach a horse direction, posture, and how to yield or move off pressure. And the lunge line is the training aid used to accomplish this.

Progress String

In most cases, this horse training aid is a thin, braided rope with an eye splice at one end and leather “popper” at the other. This device is used in many ways.

You can apply a progress string as a visual aid. For instance, to let the horse know when he is in your space.

Also you can use this tool to make physical contact from the saddle. The progress string is not heavy enough to cause a horse any pain, but the popper end make s a distinct noise when applied, and can work in place of a crop.

Large Rubber Ball

Perhaps a less traditional horse training aid is a large rubber ball, like the kind you can buy at any toy store. This aid is great for conditioning the horse’s nerves.

You can roll the ball around in front of the horse, and even roll it gently into the horse’s legs. Also, while in the saddle, you can direct the horse into the ball and gently guide the animal to move the ball around with its legs.

This sort of training will help you desensitize your horse to unexpected movement and objects, thus decreasing the likelihood of getting spooked.

Plastic Tarp

Another tool for developing the horse’s courage, a common plastic tarp is an inexpensive and effective training aid. Start by laying the tarp out in the training area and leading your horse over it, or even asking the horse to walk over the tarp on its own.

As you know, a tarp can get pretty noisy when walked on. And it will create the illusion of strange footing.

You could even slowly work into an exercise where you place the tarp over your horse’s back, possibly completely covering him or her with the tarp. This not only develops the horses’ trust in you, it also simulates noisy brush and other riding situations and helps desensitize the horse to such conditions.

This list of horse training aids will give you plenty to work with in the beginning. Of course as training progresses you will need more advanced tools and tactics.

Training your young horse can be a wonderful experience and is simpler to do as you gain more experience. Handlers need to realize that mistakes are going to be made the first time, no matter which training method you choose to use. Once you find the aptly training method, you can continue to use it and start building on your experience.

There are many types of parasitic worms that can find a home in a horse’s body. These worms can be harmful to the horse and make feeding and walking in the pasture a very miserable and a difficult experience. If a horse has too many worms in its body, it could die.

De-worming a horse once a year is recommended to ensure that worms will not survive to multiply and take over the horse’s body. Ask a veterinarian which medications the best for preventive de-worming. There are many on the market today that can kill one or more species of worm.

Horses contract worms from poor living conditions, other horses that have been mistreated, and from contaminated drinking water. Cleaning out stalls and refreshing water everyday is one way to prevent spreading the worms to the other horses living in the stable.

The Most Common Horse Worms

One reason it’s so hard to eliminate horses from worms is that there are so many. There are more than 150 internal parasites that infest horses, and any or all of these worms can be in the horse at the same time. What’s more, it’s highly likely that different parasites will be at different stages of their life cycles. That means that a de-worming treatment that kills one species will have no effect on another. For that reason, a regular de-worming program is a must to maintain horses’ health.

Some most common types of worms that can affect a horse include Strongyle, Tapeworms, Ascarids, Bots, Pinworms, Threadworms and Lungworm. The first three can infect a horse through the feces of other horses. If a contaminated horse leaves feces on the ground and another horse steps on it and moves it around the rest of the stable, it will eventually get into the feed, grass, and into the water.

Strongyles Worms in Horses

Strongyles, which seem to affect younger horses the most, begin as larvae growing up in the arteries, gut wall, and liver. As they grow, they travel through the body heading for the large intestine where they will live out their lifespan. Once inside the large intestine, strongyles will feed of the digested food leaving little nutrients for the horse.

This can cause several problems. Stunted growth, intestinal problems, artery collapse, and eventually death are common in horses affected by strongyles. By separating the older horses from the younger horses, this parasite has less chance to infect the horses.

Large Strongyles

Large strongyles include bloodworms (Strongylus vulgaris) and large redworms (Strongylus equines and Strongylus edantatus). All are nematodes, and there are males and females in the species. Bloodworm larvae damage blood vessels supplying the intestines and other internal organs. The adult worms attach to the bowel wall and drain the horse of blood and nutrients, causing anemia, ill-thrift, colic, diarrhea and death. Foals are most susceptible to large redworms, but once infected and treated, they seem to develop immunity to the parasite.

Small Strongyles

Small Strongyles are the most common intestinal parasites in horses, and have displaced their larger cousins, Large Strongyles, as the greatest danger to horse health. This parasite alone comes in more than 50 different species, but about 10 of them are common. Small Strongyles are now aggressively treated, since they’ve been identified as the cause of a lethal disease known as larval cyathostomosis, previously referred to as larval cyanthostomiasis or “winter cyanthostomiasis”

Tapeworms in Horses

Tapeworms are usually uncommon in horses. They, too, are transferred by unclean stall conditions and through feces. Tapeworms can live for years inside the stomach lining of its host. But if many tapeworms gather in the stomach, this can cause blockage, which could cause the horse to die.

Tapeworms can be up to twelve inches long. They too keep a horse from receiving proper nutrients from food. There are many things horse breeders can do to prevent the spread of tapeworms. Rotating feed to make sure it is free of feces and clean out stalls often will prevent the spread of this parasite. Since the tapeworm is the least common of all parasites, if stalls are cleaned, infestation should not be a problem.

Keep in kind that getting rid of a tapeworm is far more difficult to deal with than contracting one. Tapeworms can grow back if the head of the worm is not removed with the rest of its body. Killing one with medicine takes time. The damage could already be done, so proper prevention is important.

Equine tapeworms look like flat triangles; they’re relatively short when compared to tapeworms in cats, dogs and humans, growing to about 8 cms long by about 1.5 cm wide. The tapeworm has a small, round head that attaches to the intestinal lining by four suckers. Horse breeders and veterinarians once thought tapeworms where relatively harmless, but that’s no longer the case. Recent research has shown that tapeworms are associated with certain types of colic, some of which can be deadly.

Ascarids in Horses

Roundworms, also known as ascarids, pose serious problems for foals and younger horses, but any horse can suffer with them. The parasite’s eggs can remain dormant in the soil for many years. Roundworm eggs hatch inside the horse’s gut. The larvae move through the walls of the small intestine and into the horses’ veins, where they’re transported via the bloodstream to the lungs. Once in the lungs, a horse coughs up and then swallows the larvae, which sends them back to the small intestine.

Ascarids are worms that affect the liver and the small intestine. These worms are similar to strongyles in that they affect younger horses. As with the other worms, proper cleaning of stalls is important in keeping infestation to a minimum. If not treated, the horse will probably die from colic or an aneryurism.

Horse Bots

Bots are transferred differently from the other worms. These worms transport by insects that land on the horse’s hair, such as flies. The horse ingests the eggs, which turn into larvae on the horse’s tongue. Eventually, the worms make their way to the stomach where they live on digested food and stomach acids.

This can result in a smaller, weaker horse that has not had the proper nutrients to survive. Bot eggs should be removed by cutting eggs out of the hair on the horse or by wiping them off with warm water. This will prevent the horse from digesting them.

Bots are the larvae of the bot fly. The female bot fly lays small, sticky, yellow eggs on the horse’s coat. When the eggs hatch, the larvae get into the animal’s mouth each time the horse licks its coat. The horse swallows the larvae, which then attach to the stomach lining. Eventually the larvae pass through the digestive system. When expelled, the larvae develop into adult bot flies in the horse droppings, and the cycle begins again. Bots damage the horse’s mouth and gums as well as the stomach lining.

Pinworms

Pinworms live in a horse’s small and large colon. Females lay eggs around the horse’s anus in a sticky substances that irritates the animal. The eggs are removed when the horse excretes droppings. As with other worms, these eggs are deposited in the pasture where other horses eat them as they graze. Pinworms aren’t considered harmful but a large burden can cause severe irritation around the tail, which is maddening to the horse. Pinworms should be suspected if the horse is seen rubbing its anus against a tree, a fence or its stall.

Threadworms

Threadworms result when an infected midge bites a horse. Larvae deposited into the bite migrate to neck ligaments, suspensory ligaments and flexor tendons. Adult neck threadworms in the ligaments and tendons cause swelling and pain.

Lungworms

Lungworm larvae are among the many parasites than can infest horse pastures. When a horse eats infected grass, Lungworm larvae burrow through intestinal walls into the blood vessels that carry them to the lungs. Lungworm larvae irritate the small air sacs in the lungs, called bronchioles. This irritation causes breathing difficulties, severe cough and loss of appetite.

What Causes Worms in Horses

Horses have had parasites – worms – practically since equines evolved from their prehistoric ancestors. Most horse breeders, owners and veterinarians will say that it’s impossible to completely eradicate worms from horses, and that maybe that’s a good thing. However, it’s essential that anyone who cares for the health of a horse or horses recognize what causes worms in horses and what to do about it.

Since it seems impossible to eliminate worms completely from horses, it’s something of a relief to know that a small amount of horse worms – an amount termed a “burden” – usually doesn’t affect the horse’s health. What’s more, unlike worms affecting dogs and cats that can be passed on to humans (“zoonotic” worms), the parasites that affect horses rarely pass on to other species. They’ve become so specialized in their evolution that the only place these worms can live is in horses.

The drawback to these limits is that the horse domestication has led to large herds grazing closely together in fenced fields. This enforced closeness leads more quickly to contaminated feedstock and soil from which horses can be infected more easily.

The Life Cycles of Horse Worms

Mature worms lay eggs in the horse’s intestines. The eggs are shed in the horse’s droppings, falling into pastures where other horses graze. Another horse can ingest the eggs if it grazes close to the infected droppings. The eggs hatch inside the second horse and develop into adult worms capable of producing more eggs. While each species of worm has it own variation, this basic pattern is fairly consistent for all parasites.

Horse worms can be quite serious for young, old and sick animals. A regular schedule of de-worming for horses will help ensure that the parasite burden is kept within limits that won’t harm the animals.

Horse Worm Treatment and Control

Most horse owners invest large amounts of money and time in controlling, rather than treating, worms in horses. The reasons for this are simple, but frustrating:

Horses often have more than one type of worm. This means that more than one type of de-worming medication is needed, because not all worms respond to the same types of treatment.

A horse may show no signs of worm infestation until a severe episode of colic, diarrhea or weight loss occurs. By that point, the damage may be so severe that the horse will die.

Adult worms can be killed more easily than worm larvae, especially if the larvae have burrowed into the intestinal walls and become “encysted.” (Think of how caterpillars wrap themselves into cocoons to develop into butterflies). So it’s necessary to set up a regular “de-worming” schedule to catch successive generations of parasites.

As a result of these and other mitigating factors, treating worms in horses demands constant attention to three controls: cleaning pastures, scheduled treatment with de-worming drugs and diagnostic tests to determine heavily infected horses that can be dosed with stronger concentrations of worming drugs.

Pasture Cleanliness

Keeping down the parasite populations in horse pastures is a real chore. That’s because when infected horses drop their feces, worm eggs are deposited into the soil and onto vegetation that other horses consume, becoming infected themselves. Many species of parasites can lay dormant in their eggs in pastures for extended periods, developing into larvae when environmental conditions are good for their survival.

Research has found that regularly removing horse droppings from grazing pastures significantly reduces the risks of transmitting worms between horses. In addition, studies show that techniques such as pasture rotation, and grazing sheep or cattle on the same pasture, also reduce horse parasite populations. Sheep and cattle can eat horse worm eggs without becoming infected, so they act as natural controls on the parasites.

Scheduled De-worming Drug Treatments

Horse owners once dreaded de-worming their horses, because it mean inserting a nasogastric tube through the horse’s nostril, down its throat and into its stomach in order to administer de-worming medication. Now, however, new de-worming drugs come in oral pastes and feed additives, making it possible to treat horses for worms more easily. Tubing may still work best when a horse is diagnosed as heavily infected and needs a high dose of medication to kill off the worms.

What’s more, regular de-worming has been shown to kill off some 90 percent of adult worms. However, a drawback to this method is that it means treating horses that may only be minimally infested with worms. It also means that the horse owner must plan for a regular purchase of expensive de-worming medicines. In some cases, however, this may be the best way to control the worms where pastures have been found to been highly infested or horses seem susceptible to re-infections.

Diagnostic Tests

Given the prevalence of horse worms, horse owners and breeders for years have simply assumed that all their animals were infected and dosed them all accordingly. Today, however, veterinarians have been much more skilled at performing and interpreting diagnostic tests to determine the parasite burden (amount of worm infestation).

For instance, all it takes to identify the severity of adult redworm infestation is to do a worm egg count on a sample of a horse’s droppings. This method also diagnoses roundworm infestation. Tapeworms have been much harder to detect, but a new blood test for tapeworm infection has provide promising.

The use of diagnostic tests to target de-worming treatment is helping horse owners to spend less on medications, to delay or avoid the development of drug resistance in certain worm species, and to reduce the environmental impact that certain drugs have on pastureland.

Consequently, the best treatment for worms in horses is to control or prevent worm infestations as much as possible.

Horses must be kept in clean stalls that are refreshed every few days with new grass and hay. Drinking water should be changed at least once a day. Grooming horse often will prevent bots and other worms from getting into the horse. Young horses need to be separated from the older ones during pasture times if at all possible. This will prevent the spread of strongyles and ascarids.

Keeping all horses that live in the same stable together and not letting them graze with horses from another stable is a good idea. Since worms are easy to spread, proper precautions will make it harder to contaminate a horse.

The Arabian horse is probably one of the most recognized and famous breeds of horse in the world.

This is due to a number of factors including its extreme beauty, high intelligence and the fact that it is considered to be one of the oldest breeds in the world.

The Arabian horse is a noble warm-blooded animal, which derives its origin from the original form of the Tarpan.

Arabian Horse Origin

The name alone says that his homeland is Arabia. The Najd plateau (1000m above sea level) is located in the western part of Saudi Arabia and is considered the homeland of Arabian Horses.

Some believe that the Arabian Horse is descended from the Tarpan Horse.

Originally found in the Middle East, the breed quickly attracted the attention of riders around the world and soon the breed had spread to eventually be found in almost every country as well as virtually every horse bloodline on the face of the earth.

The steppe climatic conditions imposed a very ruthless natural selection of the Arabian Horse.

In such conditions, a horse of shorter stature, solid construction, modest needs in food and water was created.

Arabian Horse Appearance

The Arabian Horse is square in shape, with a characteristic broad head throughout.

His eye sockets lie deeper in the skull, are oval and have sharp edges.

The eyes are large, expressive and bright.

Ears small and distinctly erect.

Legs short, with strong tendons and extremely strong ankles.

His movement is sharp and strong, both in walk and in the trot.

Its tail is set high with strong musculature at the root of the tail. It moves easily and belongs to the group of fast horses.

The Arabian Horse belongs to the category of lower horses, with a height of 148 to 153 cm, a chest circumference of up to 170 cm, a shin of 18.5 cm and a weight of 400-420 kg.

It reaches full maturity at the age of 5 to 6 years.

Most Arabian horses are traditionally shorter than other breeds, however more recently, they are being bred to include an element of height that may bring an overall increase of as much as one or two extra hands.

Arabian Horse Ability

One of the reasons that riders and breeders love the breed of the Arabian horse is because of its seemingly endless talent and ability.

Known for being agile, versatile, athletic, high-spirited, intelligent and graceful, Arabian horses are used in many different types of activities and events such as saddle riding, showmanship, sports and work-related activities, affording it the name, „The Versatile Arabian“.

Arabian Horse Temperament

The Arabian horse seems to have something of a dual nature, being naturally good with humans as well as adept at aggressive activities, being often used in times of war because of its alertness and quick response.

Most owners of an Arabian horse treat the breed with as much dignity and respect as would be afforded to a human.

The breed’s sensitivity and intelligent seem to give the impression that they have many human-like qualities such as sensitive feelings, a high level of competence and a sort of empathy and understanding.

Arabian Horse Colors

Arabians are not specific to any one color, being found in a wide range of shades and patterns, however black skin, except where there are white patches of hair, is found on all Arabian horses that are pure bred.

Despite the fact that a purebred Arabian horse may come in any number of shades and colors.

Only certain ones are officially recognized by the Arabian Horse Association – roan, chestnut, grey, bay and black – which the color that is most popular and least commonly found, due to the fact that is considered to be a recessive gene.

However, the black Arabian horse is becoming more readily available as DNA breeding methods are used that allow breeders to choose the black color option.

This new breeding method, although unnatural, is actually not too far outside of the origins of the first Arabian horses, as far as history can ascertain, as it is believed to be not only one of the oldest breeds in the world, but also is a man-made or human-developed breed.

Today, the most common use for an Arabian horse is in competition, which follows in line with one of the earliest intents for the breed.

Because the breed tends to excel in sports, they are often pitted against many other breeds to see who will be the last to stand.

The American Quarter Horse, also known as the Quarter Horse, has gained world-wide recognition and respect for being one of the best, if not the absolute standard-setting, short distance racing horses in the world. In the United States, this breed, which has been known to reach speeds in excess of 55 miles per hour, is the most popular and in great demand.

American Quarter Horse

The Quarter Horse is a breed from the United States that is best known as a sprinter who can run short distances. This is the most popular breed of horse in the entire country and the AQHA has millions of horses registered. These horses are not just race horses, but are also used as rodeo horses, ranch horses and show horses. This horse features a compact body that lends itself perfectly to the agility required for various western riding tasks. These horses are used for roping, reining, cutting, herding and more. They excel in the show ring or at the ranch.

Abilities of American Quarter Horse

Although the breed excels in racing and short distance speed runs, the American Quarter Horse is also a frequently used breed for rodeos, ranching and other physically demanding work. The American Quarter Horse was given its name based on the quarter mile run that the breed seemed to excel at during races when pitted against other breeds.

The body of the American Quarter Horse is compact and well-muscled; however one of the abilities it is best known for it agility in maneuvering and quick timing. For example, in events such as calf roping, western riding and cattle-related exercises, the Quarter Horse is especially agile and proves to be an intelligent and very sensory companion to its rider.

What Are Quarter Horses Used For

Besides racing, American Quarter Horses are now used for ranches and rodeos. This breed is known to make a good herding horse capable of directing livestock. Cattle roping and barrel racing are just two more talents of this wonderful breed. The American Quarter Horse has brilliant physical and temperament characteristics. Not only is the breed strong and fast. It is very calm, which allows it to be used in recreation for children.

Because of its many natural capabilities and skills, the Quarter horse has grown to become the animal that is bred it the largest number all over the world. Currently, there are over 3.2 million Quarter Horses registered as pure bred.

American Quarter Horse – History

This horse originated in colonial times when English Thoroughbreds were crossed with Native American horses to produce this breed. The name of the breed came from the distance of race at which it did best. In the Old American West, this horse was used primarily by cowboys and ranch hands for work purposes. Although some tasks have been taken over by machines these days, these hardworking horses are still found working on ranches and farms as well as in the equestrian show ring.

American Quarter Horses Origin

The origins of the breed can be traced to Native American horses, such as the Mustang, bred with European horses brought over to the New World when the Americas were first being settled. Breeders soon noticed that the new breed of horse seemed to have a more innate sense of other animals, such as cattle, than other working breeds. Perhaps this was due to its wild roots from the feral breeds.

Because of this seemingly inborn sense, the Quarter Horse grew rapidly in popularity among ranchers and those settling the Western lands of the US. It was cattle ranchers who played the biggest role in spurning the breed on throughout the following centuries.

The American Quarter Horse Association was eventually formed in the early 20th century by ranchers and cattlemen who had worked to continue the breeding lines. After the formation of the group in 1940, a standard was established by which to identify pure bred – being those who displayed the many characteristics of the breed in an exemplary manner.

Because the American Quarter horse was often crossed with the Thoroughbred breed, the American Quarter Horse Association also makes an allowance for the inclusion of this breed in its registries. Although this allowance has been beneficial in some ways, there are those who believe that the most original characteristics of the first breeds of American Quarter Horse are slowing being phased out or watered down because of the frequent crossings with the Thoroughbred breed.

Quarter Horses Characteristics

These horses are beautiful, finely muscled and strong yet compact of body. They have small heads with straight profiles. Their chests are broad and their legs are lean. The average height is between 14 and 16 hands although some may grow larger. Body types come in two variations: stock and hunter. Stock horses are shorter, quite agile and more compact yet still strong. Hunter types look more like racehorses and bear a resemblance to the Thoroughbred breed of horse.

The American Quarter horse has a compact, muscular body, however it is not generally a small-sized horse. Some Quarter horses have grown to be as many as 17 hands high, although there is one strain of the breed, the stock horse, that is typically much shorter than the racing strain of the Quarter Horse breed.

American Quarter Horses have a deep and roomy chest and muscular front legs, which are set widely apart. The muzzle is short, jawbones are big and clearly cut, and eyes placed well apart. Ears are not very big, and they have pointed tips. Neck is powerful, sloping into straight and tough back. The underline tucks up near hind legs, and the rump is muscular. That is why most of Quarter Horse photographs present backside views of the animal.

American Quarter Horse Colors

The breed has limited white markings on the face and on the areas below the knees. Sorrel color is considered the most common in American Quarter Horses. The breed may also come in black, brown, bay, chestnut, red, and other colors. You might be interested in some Horse names ideas for your American Quarter. Maybe black horse names will suit them the most.

Quarter Horses Conclusion

American Quarter Horses are very popular in the United States and around the world.

The American Quarter Horse is an outstanding breed. Racing enthusiasts have always valued its qualities. However, with the development of railroads, the breed was likely to lose most of the working qualities. This did not happen thanks to the American Quarter Horse Association that took care of the welfare of the breed. Nowadays, American Quarter Horses are promoted by a great number of clubs and associations both in the United States and worldwide.

How long does a Horse live? Many factors contribute to the lifespan of a Horse. Good nutrition is necessary for a Horse (or any living creature) to live a long healthy life. When nutrition is lacking the Horse is more vulnerable to disease and slower to heal if injured.

How Long Does A Horse Live In The Wild

The lifespan of a Horse in the wild is about 19 years. Domestic Horses usually live quite a bit longer.

How Long Does A Horse Live In Captivity

The average lifespan of a domestic Horse is 27 to 28 years, though I have known Horses who have lived into in their thirties and forties.

How Long Do Ponies Live

Ponies live on average 20-30 years, just as the Horse. Although Ponies usually live a bit longer than Horses. If you take good care of your Ponies they can live up to 40 years and possibly more.

How To Improve Lifespan Of A Horse

A conscientious owner will take care that their pet’s physical needs are all met. In addition to nutrition, hoofs need to be kept trimmed so that infections do not occur. Living quarters need to be cleaned often of manure and moisture to prevent hooves problems and to control the worm population.

Protection from extreme weather is important for your Horse’s health as is making sure that your Horses surroundings are free from objects that he/she could be injured on. A few trees in the pasture will provide shade in the summer and wind protection in colder seasons. Horses should always have access to a protected area such as a run-in shed.

Addressing stress and behavioral problems are also important for your Horse to live a long life. If a Horse cribs (chews on) and ingests wood from fencing or in his/her stall, the ingested wood can pierce the intestines and possibly cause death. A Horse that has high energy and is not exercised may become over-stressed, act out and injure himself/herself.

Visits with the vet are needed to keep your Horse safe from rabies, and diseases such as, West Nile Virus, Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis, Western Equine Encephalomyelitis and more. The healthier your Horse is, the more chance it has to overcome any illness or injury that may present itself.

How To Help Your Horse Live Longer

Routine Checks

As strong and impressive as Horses are, they need to be looked after in order to maintain their health and vigor.

Routine checks are the easiest way to ensure that your Horse is doing well. Foot problems can not only hinder your Horse’s mobility, but can also cause greater damage to its health as a whole.

The teeth need to be checked regularly as well. An animal as big as a Horse needs to be able to eat as much as it needs, and dental problems can threaten to restrict its nutritional intake.

Taking the time to examine your Horse on a frequent and regular basis will not only help your Horse, but your vet as well.

With regular checks, problems that require medical assistance can not only be avoided, but also caught early. That way, any treatments will be less extensive. This will ensure a long and happy life for your Horse.

Dental Health

Grazing Animals

Horses are grazing animals, and their teeth have adapted wonderfully for that purpose. The front teeth, incisors, shear off forage. The cheek teeth, including the molars and premolars with their wide, flat, graveled surfaces, grind the feed to a mash before it is swallowed.

Floating

When the Horse’s teeth are rasped or filed down it is known as floating. Floating removes sharp enamel points and creates an even bite plane. It also keeps incisors and cheek teeth at a desirable length.

Some signs of dental problems include:

• Loss of feed while eating
• Difficulty while chewing
• Excessive salivation
• Loss of body condition
• Undigested feed in manure
• Head tilting and tossing
• Foul odor from mouth or nostrils
• Swelling of the face, jaw, or mouth

Lack of proper dental care may cause:

• Sharp points on teeth, causing cuts on cheeks and tongue
• Baby teeth that haven’t been shed
• Discomfort with bit contact
• Hook formation
• Lost or broken teeth
• Infected teeth or gums
• Gum disease

Foot Health

It is incredibly important to properly take care of your Horse’s feet. They are the lifelines of the Horse. Major arteries run through them and every time the Horse takes a step, it increases the flow of circulation throughout the whole Horse. The actual grooming aspects of hoof care are covered in grooming, but some of the adverse effects of improper or negligent hoof care are expanded upon here.

Conditions to look for:

• Puncture wounds
• Thrush
• Sand, heel, and quarter cracks

All of these conditions will need proper cleaning and treatment as soon as they are found.

General Signs the Hooves Need Checking:

• Consistent pointing of a certain foot.
• One hoof being constantly warmer than the others.
• Increased pulse pressure.
• Changes in hoof shape.
• Discomfort when pulling or re-nailing a shoe.
• Degree of motion is exaggerated when turning in small areas or on hard surfaces.

How Long Does A Horse Live Factors

A Horse can, if well cared for and used moderately, live to be 20 or more years old. Cases of 50-year-old Horses are also known! Older Horses are known for their increasing thinness of the head, for the penetration of the eyes into the eye sockets, for the appearance of white hair above the eyes, around the temples and harness bones, and for the lowering of the lower lip. The teeth in old Horses are worn, and sparse.

Genetics also play a role in aging – Ponies, on the whole, live longer than Horses, and certain breeds of Horses (like Arabians) have a reputation for living longer lives.

Though definitely not the norm, Horses can live to be over fifty years old. It is our job to make sure that their years on this earth are happy and healthy ones.