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The training of a horse starts at the beginning with the foal. Handling begins as early as possible. Believers of this method of handling foals from birth use the concept of foal imprinting. A foal being imprinted will let a human touch it all over, pick up its feet, and become aware of the human voice.

A cute baby horse is called a foal for the first twelve months of his life. The mare carries the foal on average for 335 days. It can be anytime between 320 and 350 days. Usually within an hour the foal is on his feet and trying to suckle from the udder.

Foals that are handled within twelve hours of birth must be treated quietly but also firmly. All foals are different; some are very friendly others are timid and shy.

To catch the foal you will need two people, one to hold the mare while you catch the foal. It can be quite tricky and he may try to escape by going in front or underneath the mare.

He should be caught with one hand around his quarters and the other hand around the front of his chest. Once you have caught him, give him some attention by gently stoking him.

Foals stay close to their mother until approximately six months old, after that they are weaned. Weaning is separating the foal from its mother.

When it is Best to Start Training the Horse

Horse training is something should start as a foal. You’re probably thinking about some of the horses that start off as two year old without a hand ever being laid on them and they turned out fine. That’s true.

But I would almost bet that even though they never had a hand laid on them their whole life, they’ve also never had a cruel hand laid on them. That’s different.

If a horse is started with cruel treatment it will take a fair amount of kindness and patience to get it over that. With horse training you have to have the patience and affection to give it when needed but you also have to have the wisdom and care to be firm when necessary.

Horse training is like training your kids. They will do what they want if you let them but you have to steer them in ways that are constructive and needed for a good relationship.

There is not a lot of horse training that you can do with a foal that includes a saddle but there is so much more that you can do. I like to start with the horse training as soon as possible.

Teaching a foal to lead is the first I suggest. Making sure that they know you are a friend and not a foe should have already been established. To train a foal to lead you get a small foal halter and place it on them with a long lead.

A long lead is good so that way you can take the excess lead and loop it around their rear (right below their tails but above their hocks) so that way when you pull on their halter it also applies a little pressure to their rear to let them know that it is time to step forward.

While the equine foal is far too young to be ridden, it is still able to learn skills it will need later in life.

By the end of the foal’s first year it should be:

• Well handled
• Foal-slip trained
• Stand tied up
• Halter trained
• Weaned

Foal Handling

An infant pony or horse is known as a foal. By handling the foal you will teach it good manners and it will develop into a horse or pony that respects you but is not afraid of you.

The foal ideally should be handled every day, spending as much time as you can with it. Run your hands all over him, rubbing, scratching and stroking every part of his body.

Handling foal’s legs

When you stroke the legs, start at the shoulder or hindquarters and work your way down. So in other words start from top to bottom.

Lifting the foot

When the foal is used to you touching his legs, try picking up his feet using your voice command saying “up!” Lift the foot a few inches off the floor to begin with.

If the foal struggles with you, hold it gently but firmly until he accepts this. Waite for a second and slowly release the foot.

Each time you practice, try keeping the foot up for a longer period.

Problems lifting a horse’s leg.

It is unnatural for a horse to stand on three legs. It is not uncommon for a horse to plant their legs firmly on the ground and refuse to allow them to be picked up.

Ask a helper to turn the horse’s head in the opposite direction, thus shifting the weight and making it easier and lighter for you to lift the leg.

Safety measures:

• Foal handling must be done with care.
• Some foals are bold, while others are timid.
• Sudden moves might frighten it.
• Stroke a foal; do not pat it, as this will scare it.
• When lifting a leg, horses have been known to rear and also kick out.

Foal-slip Training

While the equestrian foal is far too young to be ridden, it is still able to learn skills it will need later in life. Once the animal is used to you being around it, you can introduce it to a foal-slip, this is also known as a head collar.

Let the foal get used to it first, he may want to sniff at it. A head collar with an adjustable noseband is the easiest to use especially if the animal is nervous.

Place it around the foal’s neck with the lead rope attached, then move it up slowly towards the top of his ears and do it up. Finally fasten the noseband.

Repeat this exercise a couple of times a day until it accepts this as part of a daily routine.

Safety precautions:

• Do not pull on the its head when putting on the head collar. It is easily frightened.
• Never turn it out with a foal-slip on. A foal is curious and can easily get caught up on fences and posts by rubbing and scratching.

Train Foal to Stand Tied Up

At this stage in foal training he should be well handled and familiar with the foal-slip. Firstly tie the mare up so she doesn’t get in the way. Put the head collar on the foal.

Next put the lead rope through the metal ring that should be attached to the stable wall in order to tie the horse up.

Keep the end of the rope in your hand and stand to the back of the foal with your other hand on its quarters, this way you will be able to encourage it to move forward each time it leans back on the rope.

The foal will gradually learn that by taking a step forward it takes pressure off its head. When the foal accepts this tie it up using a quick release knot.

When the foal pulls back on the lead encourage it to go forward by standing near its hindquarters and putting your hand behind it.

Stay with the foal until it is calm. When you decide to leave it, make sure you’re in earshot of it in case there is a problem.

When you untie the foal, make it stand for a short while before you let it go; as you don’t want the foal developing a bad habit like moving off quickly the moment you release it.

• There should be nothing in the stable that can get in the way, like buckets or hay nets.
• The metal ring should be set high enough up the wall in order to prevent foal problems occurring like getting a foreleg over the rope.
• Loop a piece of baling cord to the attached ring first.

Tie to the cord as it is easier to cut in an emergency if you have problems with untying the knot.

Halter Train a Foal

How do I train a foal to lead? The cute foal should be well handled, foal-slip trained and should stand tied up before you teach it to lead.

You will need to put the head collar on the foal and attach a lunge line to it. A lunge line is a very long lead rope, which has many uses.

You will need someone to lead the mare out of the stable and the foal will follow with you holding the line on a light contact and long rein standing some distance behind it, so it remains calm.

The next step is to try and get the foal to stand still and ask the mare to walk on a few feet. When the mare is standing still ask the foal to move forward towards her.

Following on from the above halter training is to teach the foal to lead away from the mare.

It is easier to get someone to help you, as one needs to lead and the other encouraging it forward by putting their hands on its hindquarters.

You can encourage the horse forwards by using a long stick or schooling whip, held behind your back. Remember to use your voice commands first “walk on!” followed by a gentle touch with the stick.

My foal will not move forwards!

If the foal braces itself and you are on your own, stand to its near side holding the lead rope closely to the head collar.

Then take hold of the end of the rope in your right hand and pass it over to the other side, by the foal’s withers allowing the rope to fall down around its hocks.

Slowly take up the slack with your right hand. Encourage it to go forward with your left hand.

If the foal is not responding apply gentle pressure to the lunge line around its hocks. If gentle pressure has no effect you may need to be quite firm.

Safety precautions:

• Train in a quiet area where there are no distractions. If the mare is upset and stressed the foal will react to this situation.
• Never pull, tug or drag the foal, it will end up leaping in the air or running backwards.

Foal Weaning

When a foal reaches the age of six months it is usually separated from its mother.

It is much easier if the foal has been well handled, be able to lead on his own and been introduced to hard feed before it is weaned.

The majority of foals are born in the spring time, so weaning time is most likely to be in the autumn. If the foal is not of a hardy type, it is probably better to bring it in during the night for its first winter.

This will also give you the opportunity to handle it on a regular basis.

If you do decide to keep the foal out at night, a field with shelter is important. You also need to visit the foal at least twice a day.

If the foal is already used to hard feed like foal pellets, then it is less likely to loose condition when taken away from its mother. The foal needs to be brought in to a stable with a quiet companion horse to act as a “nanny”.

They will need to be kept in for at least 24hrs. Afterwards they can be turned out into a small, well-fenced paddock out of earshot of the mare.

If the mare or foal can hear each other, it can be very stressful for both.

If it is not possible to remove the mare out of earshot, then ride the mare out while the foal is shut in with the companion horse. After a week or two the foal and companion can be turned out separately from the mare.

Training a Young Horse

The best way to train anything is to start from the beginning. It’s hard to get a big dog and have it know everything that you want for it to know.

But if you get it as a puppy you can raise it the exact way that you like and make sure that it knows every single thing that you want it to know. It’s the same with horses.

If you start with your horse training with a colt you can make sure that it knows everything that you want it to know before it ever has a saddle on its back.

With horse training a colt you can’t just pull and pull until they come. You have to try the pull and release method.

You tug until they take a step forward and then release them and repeat over and over with praise after a while. It is also good if you can do this with someone else leading their momma so that they really want to follow you.

You can also work on the horse training of your foal by desensitizing it to many of the things it will see when it’s old enough to be saddle trained. Take it for walks when you go trail riding on your horse, take the lead and gently move it around their feet.

You can even take a feed sack or trash bag and rub it all over them to let them know that the weird sound is nothing to worry about. And mess with their heads. Literally. Mess with their ears, inside and out. Rub them as it actually is really relaxing to a horse.

Some might not be lucky enough to get a horse that they can raise from a foal all the way up to riding age to begin their horse training. You might get a horse that is three or four or even ten and hopefully broken in.

These are only some of the few suggestions I have in horse training your foal. They will give you a good head start for when it gets old enough for that saddle.

A horse needs daily grooming. When you decide to perform this task for your hooved pets, you should allow about 45 minutes to an hour to complete it.

You’ll need a few grooming products in order to do the job well. A rubber curry comb, a body brush, a dandy brush, a hoof pick with an optional brush, a mane comb, a clean sponge, and a towel or rag. You might also want to use a mane and tail conditioner.

Begin by tying your horse securely, using a halter or cross ties with quick-release fasteners. Start on your horse’s left side, and pick up a front leg. Run your hand down the horse’s leg to the fetlock, and pick the leg up gently. Don’t lift it too high, or the horse might lose his or her balance.

Clean the hoof with the hoof pick, using it to loosen packed dirt. Be careful not to cut into the V-shaped area in the center of the hoof, known as the frog. If your hoof pick has a brush, use it to clean away any loose dirt; clean the remaining hooves in the same way.

Again beginning on the horse’s left side; use the rubber curry comb to loosen dust and dirt on the coat. Move the brush in circles to loosen the dirt beneath the coat. Don’t use the curry comb on your pet’s legs. These products are not designed for delicate leg areas.

You should also be very careful on bony parts of the body, such as the shoulders and back. Never use a curry comb or any stiff-bristled brush on your horse’s face, because a sudden head movement could result in injury to an eye.

After you’ve loosened the dirt, use the dandy brush to sweep it away. Use short movements, as you do when you’re using a whisk broom, twisting your hand at the wrist. This will sweep out the dirt that’s caught in the coat. You’ll probably see little dust clouds as you work. Bang the side of the brush against the ground or floor occasionally to clean it. Do the horse’s left side, then the right side, and the rear.

Next, use the body brush to smooth the coat. Move the brush in a downward motion, which will get rid of any bits of dirt that remain, and make your pet’s coat shiny.

Clean the horse’s face with a clean, damp sponge, wiping around the eyes and nostrils. Spray the mane with conditioner, if you like, and comb it with a plastic mane comb. A plastic product will break fewer hairs than a metal comb.

Spray Your horse tail with conditioner if you’re using it, and brush the tail with the Dandy Brush. Avoid using the mane comb because it tends to break the tail hairs. Finally, wipe the entire coat with a clean towel or rag. This will remove sweat marks and make your pet’s coat shine.

Last, always remember to be very careful when grooming your horse – let them know (by touching them gently) where you are at all times.

Everything You Need to Groom a Horse

When you groom a horse, you need a few special products that will loosen and remove dirt, smooth the mane and tail, and clean the hooves.

The kit for grooming your horse includes many brushes and combs with each having its own particular job, such as some listed below:

Dandy brushes use long bristles to get rid of surface soil from the coat, and are typically used on regions of the horses that are the least sensitive. Body brushes have a leather back and can be either tough or soft depending on your requirments. They are normally used to get rid of grime and riding dust from you’re horses’ coat and can be used in the sensitive areas of your horse’s body.

Alter brushing the horse, the curry comb is used to maintain the brush, not for disentangling the horse. It cleans off the dust and soil that accumulate on the brush so it will be for the following time you need it. The rubber curry comb is used to clean the horse’s mane and tail, to remove caked mud and loose hair.

Water Brush – you are going to use water when washing off or moistening your horse’s coat and this brush is needed when utilizing water on them.

The mane comb, true to its name, is used to comb out the mane and tail, and most normally is manufactured of metal and plastic. Short metal comb variants are used for drawing manes while other specific combs are used to reduce the thickness of the mane.

Hoof picks are used to take of soil, stone and other detritus that are collected in their hooves while horseback riding or feeding in the field.

Cotton fiber sponges are used for cleansing the eyes, nose and injuries, while a sweat scraper wipes off sweat from the horse or surplus water when washing.

A canvas bag with drawstring, as long as it has room for all the brushes, would make a great grooming kit.

Horse Grooming for Show Day

If you show your horse or if your pet gets especially muddy or dirty, you’ll probably want to use a shampoo periodically. Mane and tail shampoo products can be used on your pet’s coat, as well.

Mix them into a bucket of water, as directed on the bottle, and apply the mixture to your horse’s coat. After you rinse them out, follow up with mane and tail conditioner.

To loosen dirt before a shampoo, or as part of a daily grooming, use a rubber curry comb. These combs loosen dirt when you move them in a circular motion over the horse’s entire coat. They’re not meant to be used on the legs, unless you can do it very, very gently.

After the curry comb, use a dandy brush to remove the loosened dirt. These brushes have stiff bristles, and let you sweep away the dirt. Again, you shouldn’t use them on your pet’s legs.

Never use any bristled brush on your pet’s face. It’s too easy to cause an eye injury if the horse moves or jerks. Instead, gently wipe around the eyes and nostrils with a damp, clean sponge.

Use a body brush to smooth down the coat after you remove the dirt. These products will also help to make the coat shine. Wipe the legs with a damp towel or rag, and gently brush them with the body brush.

Use a plastic mane comb to comb out tangles in the mane and forelock. For the tail, the dandy brush will remove tangles without breaking the hairs. If you haven’t used a shampoo, you can use a mane and tail conditioner before brushing to help remove tangles and make the mane and tail shiny and smooth.

To clean your pet’s hooves use a hoof pick. A pick equipped with a brush will let you brush away the dirt that you loosen. Use a stable cloth, a clean towel, or a clean rag to wipe your pet’s coat and make it shiny.

If you’re showing your horse, you might want to use a conditioning product on the towel for the final wipe. These products make the coat soft, smooth, and shiny. They shouldn’t be used in the saddle area, because they can also make the coat slippery.

The Best Tips and Tricks for Grooming Horses

Here are some tips collected from horse owners all over on ways to groom your horse more effectively:

• Use whitening toothpaste to whiten socks and white face markings. Rub the toothpaste onto the white areas with your hand or a soft sponge and rinse clean. The white will be blinding.
• Use cornstarch to freshen up white socks or white hooves, especially before going into the show ring or whenever you want your horse to look great.
• To detangle a really matted tail or mane, take a gentle dish soap and wash the tail with that and then work out the tangle with a stiff brush.
• Baby wipes are a great way to „spot clean“ your horse.
• Use a chamois or microfiber cloth to „dust“ your horse after grooming. It will remove all the fine dust and hair that even the softest brush won’t remove.
• If there’s no time to give your horse a bath but the horse really needs one, use a dry shampoo and a soft sponge to wipe the horse down.
• Use a shine product like Show Sheen on your horse immediately after a bath and any barn dust that settles on the coat will slide right off.
• If your horse has a pink or white nose always put some zinc oxide or sunscreen on the nose to protect it from sunburn.
• Always brush in the direction of the hair growth except when you’re currying. Use small circles when you’re currying to loosen dead hair and dust.
• If you can’t wash your muddy or sweaty horse, let the mud or sweat dry and then brush it off; don’t try to brush it off wet or you’ll just spread it around.
• Use color enhancing shampoos to bring out the natural tones and highlights in your horse’s coat.

Grooming is very important to a horse’s health and overall well being. Grooming isn’t just cosmetic; your horse needs to be groomed every day to stay healthy. Grooming is also a good time to examine your horse and check the horse for any bumps or bruises or other injuries.

Horse Grooming Products:

Oster Equine Care Series 7-Piece Horse Grooming Kit

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Equestria 8 Piece Horse Grooming Set

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Borstiq Banana 5pcs Horse Grooming Brush Kit

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7-Piece Horse Grooming Kit by Weaver Leather

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Mane ‘n Tail 3 Pcs Horse Grooming Shampoo, Conditioner and Detangler

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